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Page 4 - Toyota 80 Series Electric Locking Differentials Retrofit for an FJ60
Rear:
So, you want to put the electric locker in the rear of your Cruiser huh? It's done pretty much the same way as putting one in the front of your Cruiser, you just have to have a Land Cruiser full-float (FF) rear end first. That's the hard part. Years ago a guy name Tupp was making and selling a kit to convert your stock semi-float rear axle assembly into a full-float assembly and utilize the electric locker--but he no longer makes or sells the kit. There also used to be a Warn full-float conversion kit but they also are no longer in production and are pretty much unavailable and if you do find one it will cost you more than just buying a Land Cruiser full-float rear end from a Cruiser shop. Anyway, at the end of this article is a list of places to get all the stuff for the electric locker conversion so check there.
Anyway, the list of parts needed for the rear are similar to the font (part numbers):
- electric locking diff from REAR of FZJ80
- full-float rear axle assembly
- long-splined, short-side axle shaft
- 6 new diff studs
- new diff gasket
Now, if you have a full-float rear end and all the needed parts, let's carry on with the install. Most of this info is relatively the same as the info for putting it into your front axle--but since it's for the rear, some info will be different.
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As was the case with the front, if you don't know how to take apart your full-float rear end and pull the axles shafts out, then go learn how. Here's a good write-up of a Full Float Rear Axle Overhaul.
So, the first thing you want to do is start draining the gear oil out of the diff. While it's draining, work on pulling your axle shafts out. Once both axle shafts are removed and the diff has pretty much finished draining, remove the ten diff bolts and pull the diff.
Once the diff is out, you'll want to pull the 6 studs that are going to be replaced by the new longer ones. The ones needed to be removed are circled in red and blue in the first picture down below. Now that we're working on the rear axle, the side that the two studs circled in red are on is the short side (passenger's side). I used some vice-grips and a pipe wrench to remove the old ones cause it didn't matter if the threads on them got messed up.
While you've got the six old studs removed, you must again decide whether or not you wish to notch the housing for the diff lock fork. It is not absolutely necessary, but after doing my two axles, I recommend to make the notch.. It took quite a bit of effort to get the diff to drop into place without grinding the housing. It was a super tight fit. Yes, it did go in and yes the locker has no problems engaging or disengaging once it's in, but, I am dreading the day I ever have to remove those diffs. It's going to be difficult. So, if you opt to grind the housing, purchase a diff gasket for an 80 series rear WITH diff lock. It will have the notch cut into it and you can use it for a template. The first picture below is from a similar mod done on a V6 Toy Mini truck where they installed the electric locker from the front of an 80 into their V6 axle. They had to notch the housing. The notch you make in a Cruiser housing will be similar
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Now screw in the 6 new studs. Use the double-nut technique to tighten them in. Just take it easy and you'll eventually get them all in nicely. There's no need for thread locker or sealer if you got your studs from Toyota because they come coated already--but be sure they are in all the way or you might end up with leakage. Since we're now working on the rear axle, the longest studs (~91 mm, circled in red above) go on the short side (passenger's side). Place the other four (~53 mm, circled in blue above) accordingly.
After the studs are all on, place the gasket on the housing. Now you're ready for the diff.
To insert the diff into the housing, you first want to make sure the locker is in the LOCKED position. Otherwise the diff lock sleeve will just drop right out into the housing somewhere and you'll never get the axle shaft to slide into it. And if you didn't notch the housing you really won't ever get close to getting the diff in without locking it. Anyway, if it's not locked, all you need to do is connect the GREEN and GREEN/RED pins to a 9-Volt battery and it'll operate. If nothing happens when you hit the two pins with the 9-Volts then switch the polarity. If nothing still happens, get a brand new 9-Volt battery and try again. We tried for quite some time to get it to work using a used 9-Volt battery that still had power (checked it by sticking my tongue on it) and the locker motor never moved. If a brand new 9-Volt still doesn't get the locking motor to go, try using the leads from a 12-Volt car battery (that's the voltage it runs on anyway) and remember to try switching the polarity. If still nothing happens, you need to visit Slee Off-Road's Tech Zone article on fixing a sticky diff lock actuator.
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So once the diff is locked, drop it into the housing and tighten a couple nuts onto the diff studs to hold it in place and then insert your shafts back into the axle housing and tighten it all down to spec.
Zap the GREEN and GREEN/RED pins again to unlock it and you're ready to go. Only step left is to wire it up. But since I have yet to wire mine up yet, you'll have to go to 4x4 Wires Toyota Electric Locker write-up.
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