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Page 3 - Toyota 80 Series Electric Locking Differentials Retrofit for an FJ60
Install:
First remove your diff drain plug and start draining the gear oil. While it's draining, start pulling your axle shafts. You'll need both shafts pulled out in order to remove your diff. If you don't know how to take out your Cruiser front axle shafts, go HERE. Once your shafts are out remove the diff and set it aside. Watch out--it's one heavy SOB.
Separate the long side axle shaft from the birfield joint and subsequently insert the new long-splined shaft into the birfield. It is not necessary to keep the spring clip (the outer one that goes on the very outer end of the inner axle shaft) on the axle shaft (on driver's or passenger's sides). The spring clip's purpose is to to keep the inner axle shaft from sliding too far in to the differential. The electric locker sidegear design prevents the axle from sliding in too far, thus eliminating the need for the outer spring clip. The snap ring (the inner clip of the two on the outer end of the inner axle shaft) is still necessary. It keeps the shaft from sliding too far into the birfield. Make sense? If you're having trouble following me, keep the Axle Overhaul page open in another window. In the first picture below, the spring clip would go where the blue arrow is pointing and the snap ring would go where the red arrow is pointing.
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The next step is to remove the 6 old diff studs. Since we're working on the front axle, the side that the two studs circled in red are on is the long side (driver's side). I used some vice-grips and a pipe wrench to remove the old ones cause it didn't matter if the threads on them got messed up.
While you've got the six old studs removed, now is the time to decide whether or not you wish to notch the housing for the diff lock fork. It is not absolutely necessary, but after doing two of them, I recommend to make the notch. It took quite a bit of effort to get the diff to drop into place without grinding the housing. It was a super tight fit. Yes, it did go in and yes the locker has no problems engaging or disengaging. But, I am dreading the day I ever have to remove those diffs. It's going to be difficult. So, if you opt to grind the housing, purchase a diff gasket for an 80 series rear WITH diff lock. It will have the notch cut into it and you can use it for a template. The first picture below is from a similar mod done on a V6 Toy Mini truck where they installed the electric locker from the front of an 80 into their V6 axle. They had to notch the housing. The notch you make in a Cruiser housing will be similar
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Next step is to screw in the 6 new studs. Use the double-nut technique to tighten them in. Just take it easy and you'll eventually get them all in nicely. There's no need for thread locker or sealer if you got your studs from Toyota because they come coated already--but be sure they are in all the way or you might end up with leakage. Since we're working on the front axle, the longest studs (~91 mm, circled in red up above) go on the long side (driver's side). Place the others (~53 mm, circled in blue up above) accordingly.
After the studs are all on, place the gasket on the housing. Now you're ready for the diff.
To insert the diff into the housing, you first want to make sure the locker is in the LOCKED position. Otherwise the diff lock sleeve will just drop right out into the housing somewhere and you'll never get the axle shaft to slide into it. And if you didn't notch the housing you really won't ever get close to getting the diff in without locking it. Anyway, if it's not locked, all you need to do is connect the GREEN and GREEN/RED pins to a 9-Volt battery and it'll operate. If nothing happens when you hit the two pins with the 9-Volts then switch the polarity. If nothing still happens, get a brand new 9-Volt battery and try again. We tried for quite some time to get it to work using a used 9-Volt battery that still had power (checked it by sticking my tongue on it) and the locker motor never moved. If a brand new 9-Volt still doesn't get the locking motor to go, try using the leads from a 12-Volt car battery (that's the voltage it runs on anyway) and remember to try switching the polarity. If still nothing happens, you need to visit Slee Off-Road's Tech Zone article on fixing a sticky diff lock actuator.
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So once the diff is locked, drop it into the housing and tighten a couple nuts onto the diff studs to hold it in place and then insert your shafts back into the axle housing and tighten it all down to spec.
Zap the GREEN and GREEN/RED pins again to unlock it and you're ready to go. Only step left is to wire it up. But since I have yet to wire mine up yet, you'll have to go to 4x4 Wires Toyota Electric Locker write-up.
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